The Walk at a Glance
The Watersmeet walk follows the East Lyn River upstream from Lynmouth through a deep gorge of ancient sessile oak woodland to the National Trust's Watersmeet House — a 19th-century fishing lodge now serving as a tea room and visitor centre in one of Exmoor's most beautiful spots. The return journey climbs the high path above the gorge for completely different views of the same landscape before descending back to Lynmouth. It's a relatively short walk, but the density of beauty — river, gorge, woodland, wildlife — makes it feel much richer than the distance suggests.
The walk is particularly spectacular in spring (wild garlic carpets the woodland floor, daffodils on the river banks) and in autumn (the oak canopy turns gold and rust above the green river). In summer the gorge is lush and shaded — welcome on hot days when the exposed Exmoor ridges above would be uncomfortable. Winter brings the full force of the East Lyn in spate — the river can be dramatically loud and fast after prolonged rain.
Dippers & Kingfishers
Dippers bob on midstream rocks throughout the year; kingfishers are regularly seen at the calmer pools below Watersmeet.
Ancient Sessile Oak
One of England's finest examples of ancient hanging oak woodland — designated SSSI and part of the Exmoor NNR system.
1952 Flood Memorial
Lynmouth was devastated by flash floods in 1952. The East Lyn rose 9 metres overnight — markers along the path show the flood levels.
NT Tea Room
Watersmeet House (National Trust) serves cream teas and light lunches at the confluence — open April to October.
The Route — Step by Step
🗺️ Watersmeet Walk — 2.5 miles circular
From the Lynmouth car park, walk through the village towards the harbour. Take the riverside path following the East Lyn upstream, signed to Watersmeet. The gorge begins almost immediately — the river falls in steps over grey rocks, and the oak woodland closes in on both banks within minutes of leaving the village.
Follow the river path upstream through the gorge. The path is well-maintained but involves some steps and uneven sections. The gorge deepens as you walk — the oak woodland above is particularly dramatic, with trees growing horizontally from the near-vertical sides. Look for dippers on the midstream rocks; grey wagtails on the bank. Several small side falls and cascades reward pauses along the way.
The confluence of the East Lyn River and Hoaroak Water at Watersmeet is announced by a change in the sound of the water — suddenly two rivers instead of one. Watersmeet House (NT tea room) sits right at the junction on a grassy bank above the rivers. Stop for a cream tea or explore the pools and rocks at the confluence. This is one of the most beautiful spots on Exmoor.
For the return, take the high path that climbs steeply from Watersmeet above the gorge. The ascent is the hardest part of the walk but is rewarded with views down into the gorge and across to the wooded valley sides opposite. The path levels off above the canopy line before beginning its descent back towards Lynmouth.
The high path descends through woodland back to Lynmouth, meeting the road above the village before dropping to the harbour. If time allows, combine with the Lynton-Lynmouth Cliff Railway — the Victorian water-powered funicular that connects the two villages — for a complete afternoon on Exmoor's coast.
What to See on the Walk
Ancient Woodland
The East Lyn gorge holds one of the finest examples of ancient sessile oak (Quercus petraea) woodland in England — trees that have been established here since the last Ice Age, adapted to the thin acidic soils of the valley sides. The woodland floor varies by season: wild garlic (ransoms) creates an almost luminescent white-green carpet in April and May, the scent detectable from the river path. Autumn brings the russet and gold of the oak canopy, perfectly reflected in the river pools on still days.
River Wildlife
The East Lyn is one of Exmoor's cleanest rivers — its clarity supports an excellent population of brown trout, which are visible from the path in the clear shallows. The dipper (Cinclus cinclus) — a remarkable bird that walks underwater to feed — is resident year-round and can usually be seen bobbing on the midstream rocks within the first half-mile from Lynmouth. Kingfishers are less reliable but are regularly seen at the quieter pools near Watersmeet, particularly in the quieter winter months. Grey herons stand motionless in the river margins; grey wagtails flicker along the banks.
The 1952 Lynmouth Flood
On the night of 15 August 1952, following 9 inches of rain in 24 hours on the Exmoor plateau above, the East and West Lyn rivers rose catastrophically. The flood destroyed 93 houses, 28 bridges and killed 34 people — one of Britain's worst peacetime natural disasters. Flood level markers along the East Lyn path show the extraordinary height the river reached that night. The gorge itself channelled the floodwater and debris with devastating force; the reconstruction of Lynmouth took years. The story is told at the Lynmouth Flood Memorial Museum in the village.
ℹ️ Practical Information
- Start: Lynmouth car park, EX35 6EQ. Pay-and-display, open year-round
- NT Tea Room: Watersmeet House is open April–October daily. Cream teas, light lunches and hot drinks. Dogs welcome in the outdoor seating area
- Flooding: After heavy rain the gorge path can be closed — check the NT website before visiting in wet weather
- Pushchairs: The gorge path is not suitable for pushchairs due to steps and uneven surfaces
- Extension: The path continues upstream from Watersmeet to Hillsford Bridge (adding 2 miles) for a longer day
- Cliff Railway: The Victorian Lynton-Lynmouth Cliff Railway connects the two villages — excellent combined with the walk (operates April–October)
💡 Best Time to Visit
Late April and May for wild garlic and spring flowers. October for autumn colour in the oak woodland — arguably the finest season for this walk. Winter after heavy rain for the drama of the river in full spate (gorge path may be partially closed — check ahead). Avoid summer weekends if you prefer solitude — Watersmeet is deservedly popular and the gorge path can be busy on fine August days.
Getting There & Parking
Lynmouth is reached via the A39 from Barnstaple (west) or Minehead (east). The village itself is at the bottom of the famous Lynton Hill — one of the steepest main roads in England at 1-in-4 gradient, which can be challenging for vehicles. The preferred approach from the west is via the A39 directly to Lynmouth; from the east, Lynmouth is signposted off the A39 above Countisbury Hill. Parking in Lynmouth car park (postcode EX35 6EQ) is pay-and-display and is the most convenient start point. In summer, arrive before 10am to guarantee a space.
Bus: The 309/310 service from Barnstaple stops in Lynmouth, making car-free access feasible for visitors staying in Barnstaple or Ilfracombe. Check Traveline South West for current timetables.