Westward Ho!
The Complete Beach Guide

The Beach

Westward Ho! Beach

Westward Ho! occupies a special place in North Devon — it is one of the few beach towns on this coast that was built specifically as a seaside resort, and its name is one of the most distinctive in all of England. The exclamation mark is not a modern marketing conceit but an integral part of the official name, derived from Charles Kingsley's 1855 novel of the same title. Kingsley spent his boyhood in nearby Clovelly and used the North Devon coast as the setting for his seafaring adventure story. The town that grew up in the 1860s to cash in on the novel's popularity took the title wholesale — making Westward Ho! the only place in Britain whose name contains punctuation. It is a pleasing piece of Victoriana that gives the town a character quite unlike any other beach settlement in the South West.

The beach itself is a generous two-mile stretch of sand facing north-west across Bideford Bay toward Lundy Island. At low tide the sand is wide, flat and firm — ideal for walking, running, ball games and the simple pleasure of watching the Atlantic light shift across Morte Point and the headlands to the north. The orientation means the beach catches Atlantic swells that arrive from the north and north-west, giving it a consistent surf throughout the year while remaining relatively sheltered from the most punishing southwesterly storms that batter the more exposed headland beaches of Croyde and Saunton.

Behind the beach stands one of the most geologically unusual features on the Devon coast: a massive natural pebble ridge that runs for much of the beach's length. This shingle bank — composed of pebbles and cobbles rolled and sorted by centuries of wave action — forms a natural barrier between the beach and the lower-lying land behind it. The ridge is a dynamic feature, meaning it moves and reshapes itself in response to storm events and long-term wave patterns. It is also the defining visual character of Westward Ho!, giving the beach a wild, slightly otherworldly quality — the smooth stones catching the light differently from sand at every hour of the day. Beyond the ridge lies Northam Burrows, a country park and nature reserve of exceptional interest and one of the best walking areas in North Devon.

Westward Ho! is a genuine family resort rather than a fashionable destination, and all the better for it. The town has amusements, fish and chip shops, ice cream parlours and the cheerful commerce of traditional British seaside life. The beach carries a consistent Blue Flag award recognising its water quality and facilities management — a distinction not all North Devon beaches can claim.

Surfing

Surf & Bodyboarding at Westward Ho!

Westward Ho! is one of the most accessible surf beaches in North Devon for beginners and learners. Its north-westerly facing aspect means it receives Atlantic swell reliably year-round, but it sits in a more sheltered position within Bideford Bay than the open-coast beaches at Croyde and Saunton Sands further to the north. The result is a beach that produces consistent, rideable waves without the raw power and unpredictability that can make Croyde unsuitable for those learning the sport. For families where one or two members want to try surfing while others simply want to swim and build sandcastles, Westward Ho! is a practical and enjoyable choice.

Wave Character

The waves at Westward Ho! are predominantly beach break, forming across the flat sandy bottom with a gentle, rolling character that is well suited to beginners and bodyboarders. In summer the swell tends to be small — typically one to three feet — which is manageable and unthreatening for first-timers and younger children. As autumn sets in and the Atlantic storms begin to build, the wave size increases and the quality improves, bringing more serious surf that suits intermediate and experienced riders. Winter can produce powerful conditions on the biggest swells, though the beach's slightly sheltered orientation means it is usually still surfable when the exposed headland breaks are too heavy.

• Best for: Beginners, bodyboarders, learners, families trying surf for the first time
• Swell direction: North-west and north works well; west is also good
• Best state of tide: Mid-tide, on the push, typically gives the cleanest shape
• Summer conditions: Small and forgiving — ideal for lessons and first attempts
• Autumn and winter: Larger and more powerful — better suited to experienced surfers

Surf School & Equipment Hire

A surf school operates at Westward Ho! during the main season, offering group and individual lessons for complete beginners as well as boards and wetsuits for hire. Instructors are experienced in teaching all ages, and the consistently gentle summer waves mean first-timers almost always stand up during their initial session, making lessons here a genuinely rewarding experience rather than a frustrating struggle against the sea. Bodyboards can also be hired directly on the beach and require no instruction — they are excellent fun for children and adults alike in the gentle shorebreak.

Nature Reserve

Northam Burrows Country Park

Immediately behind the pebble ridge that borders the back of Westward Ho! beach lies Northam Burrows — one of the most unusual and ecologically important landscapes in North Devon. The Burrows are a designated Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and form the centrepiece of Northam Burrows Country Park, covering over 250 acres of coastal grassland, dunes and salt marsh. For many visitors, discovering the Burrows is as much a highlight of a Westward Ho! trip as the beach itself.

The Pebble Ridge

The pebble ridge that separates beach from burrows is itself a geological feature of considerable significance. It is a dynamic, naturally mobile structure — one of the finest examples of a maintained storm beach in England — that has protected the low-lying ground behind it from the sea for thousands of years. The ridge is composed of rounded grey pebbles and cobbles, many of them the smoothed remnants of harder rock types carried along the coast by wave action over millennia. Walking along the crest of the ridge gives superb views in both directions: out across Bideford Bay to Lundy Island on clear days, and back across the open expanse of the Burrows with the Torridge and Taw estuaries glinting in the distance.

The ridge has been managed and maintained for centuries and remains under active conservation management today. In severe storms, the sea overtops the ridge and flooding of the Burrows is not unusual — a dramatic reminder that this is a living, working piece of coastal geography, not a fixed structure. Visitors are asked to stay on designated crossing points rather than scrambling over the ridge arbitrarily, both for their own safety and to minimise damage to the structure.

The Grassland and Wildlife

Behind the ridge, the open grassland of Northam Burrows has a character quite unlike the manicured parks found behind most seaside towns. The Burrows are grazed by cattle for much of the year — this traditional management is essential for maintaining the short, species-rich turf that gives the site its ecological value. The grazing keeps the grass low enough to support a remarkable variety of wildflowers, including several nationally rare species associated with coastal grasslands. In spring and early summer the Burrows can be extraordinarily colourful, with patches of sea pink, yellow rattle and other wildflowers spreading across the turf between grazing areas.

The birdwatching on the Burrows is excellent year-round. Curlew, lapwing and redshank are regular on the wetter areas. In winter, waders and wildfowl arrive from northern breeding grounds to feed on the estuary margins at the northern end of the Burrows. In summer, skylarks sing overhead across the open grassland — a sound increasingly rare in southern England that is still common here, carrying with it a particular quality of North Devon summer that is difficult to replicate anywhere else.

Northam Burrows Golf Course

Much of the Burrows is also occupied by Royal North Devon Golf Club — the oldest golf club in England, founded in 1864, whose course runs across the open grassland in a setting unlike any other golf club in the country. The combination of grazing cattle, SSSI wildflower grassland and a working golf course is peculiarly North Devon and entirely logical in its way. Walkers and golfers share the space under a long-established understanding, with footpaths clearly marked and golfers accustomed to their distinctive surroundings. For non-golfers, the sight of players navigating cattle and skylarks on what looks more like an upland common than a typical fairway is one of the minor pleasures of a Westward Ho! visit.

Dogs

Dogs at Westward Ho!

Dogs are subject to seasonal restrictions on the main beach at Westward Ho!, as is standard practice across most North Devon family beaches during the summer season. The rules are clearly signposted on the beach and at the car park, and they are straightforward to navigate.

• Main beach (central and southern sections): Dogs are restricted from 10am to 6pm between 1 May and 30 September. Outside these times and dates, dogs are welcome on the full beach.
• North end of the beach (near Northam Burrows): Dogs are welcome year-round with no seasonal restrictions. This section remains open to dogs throughout the summer months.

In practice, the arrangement works well for dog owners. The unrestricted northern end of the beach — where the sand meets the edge of Northam Burrows — is an excellent location in its own right, with more space and generally quieter conditions than the central beach near the town. Dogs that enjoy swimming in the sea will find conditions here comparable to the main beach, while the connection to Northam Burrows means that a beach visit can be combined immediately with a walk across the open grassland without any additional travel.

Early morning and evening visits in summer, outside the 10am–6pm restriction window, offer the full beach to dog owners and are among the finest times to visit anyway — the low golden light, the tide either well in or well out, and the beach largely to themselves. Many regular visitors with dogs prefer to time their visits deliberately for these hours rather than using the unrestricted northern end, simply because the entire beach is more beautiful and atmospheric in the early morning and late evening than at the height of a busy summer afternoon.

Getting There

Parking & Getting to Westward Ho!

By Car

Westward Ho! is straightforwardly reached from Bideford, which in turn sits on the A39 Atlantic Highway — the main arterial road connecting Barnstaple and the North Devon coast to the M5 at junction 27 near Tiverton. From Bideford, follow the B3236 signposted to Westward Ho! — the road descends through Northam village and arrives directly at the seafront. The postcode for the main seafront car park is EX39 1QW.

• From Barnstaple: Take the A39 west to Bideford, then the B3236 south to Westward Ho!. Allow approximately 30–35 minutes.
• From Exeter and the M5: Join the A361 North Devon Link Road at junction 27, continue to Barnstaple, then the A39 to Bideford and B3236 to Westward Ho!. Allow approximately 1 hour 30 minutes in normal traffic.
• From Clovelly and the west: Approach via the A39 east through Horns Cross, then north through Bideford. Allow 20–30 minutes from Clovelly.
• From Croyde and Saunton: Head south through Braunton and Barnstaple, then west on the A39 to Bideford and south on the B3236. Allow 40–50 minutes.

Parking

Westward Ho! has a large pay-and-display car park immediately on the seafront, within easy walking distance of the beach access points and town facilities. It is one of the larger car parks on the North Devon coast and generally handles summer demand reasonably well, though it does fill on the busiest weekends in July and August — particularly on fine Saturdays when Croyde and Saunton also fill early and visitors migrate south along the coast. Arriving before 10am on peak summer days is wise. There is also some on-street and additional town centre parking, though spaces near the seafront are limited.

By Bus

Regular bus services connect Westward Ho! to Bideford town centre, making it accessible without a car for those staying in or around Bideford. Buses also run between Bideford and Barnstaple, connecting Westward Ho! to the wider North Devon bus network. Check Traveline South West for current timetables, as services and frequencies vary by season. The bus stop in Westward Ho! is close to the seafront car park, making the town unusually accessible by public transport for a North Devon beach destination.

Families

Westward Ho! for Families

Westward Ho! is one of the most reliable family beaches in North Devon, combining the safety and facilities of an established resort with the natural interest of Northam Burrows and a beach wide and flat enough to accommodate every age group simultaneously. Several specific qualities make it stand out.

• Blue Flag status: The beach holds a consistent Blue Flag award recognising its water quality, lifeguard provision, beach management and facilities — a meaningful endorsement for families with young children swimming in the sea
• RNLI lifeguards: On duty throughout the main season from May to September, with supervised swimming between the flags, regular beach patrols and real peace of mind for parents
• Flat, safe swimming: The beach's gentle gradient and relatively sheltered position within Bideford Bay make the water approachable even for young children — the sea here is generally less intimidating than at the more exposed headland beaches nearby
• Northam Burrows: Immediately behind the beach, the Burrows provide outstanding walking, wildlife watching and open space for children who need to run — a direct extension of the beach visit without getting back in the car
• Town facilities: Amusements, fish and chip shops, ice cream parlours, cafés and a traditional British seaside atmosphere in the town immediately behind the beach
• Surf school: Summer lessons and bodyboard hire give older children and teenagers an active, exciting focus — beginners almost always stand up, making lessons genuinely rewarding
• Easy beach access: Multiple access points from the seafront with no steep climbs or scrambles required — pushchairs and beach trolleys can be managed comfortably

The combination of safe, supervised swimming, easy facilities access and the added dimension of Northam Burrows means Westward Ho! tends to work well for mixed-age family groups where different members want different experiences from the day. The flat, wide beach also makes it genuinely possible to set up a base and be comfortable for a full day — which is not always true of smaller or more precipitously situated North Devon beaches.

Food & Drink

Food & Drink at Westward Ho!

Seafront Cafés

Several cafés and snack bars operate along the Westward Ho! seafront throughout the season, offering the essentials of a British beach day: hot drinks, ice creams, sandwiches, breakfasts, and light lunches. The seafront strip has an old-fashioned cheerfulness to it that suits the town's character — this is not a place for fashionable dining, but for refuelling between swims and rewarding children for good behaviour in the sea. The cafés along the main seafront road are within easy walking distance of all the main beach access points and the car park.

Fish and Chips

Westward Ho! has several fish and chip shops serving fresh fish and chips to eat on the seafront, on the beach or take away. The standard is solid throughout the town. Fish and chips eaten sitting on the pebble ridge at Westward Ho!, watching the sun lower over Bideford Bay with Lundy Island on the horizon, is one of those simple North Devon pleasures that stays with you long after you have left. A genuinely recommended approach to an early evening on this beach.

The Pig on the Hill

For something more substantial and a change of scene from the seafront, the Pig on the Hill is a well-regarded pub and restaurant situated on the high ground above Westward Ho!, with panoramic views across Bideford Bay and the North Devon coast. The Pig has built a strong reputation for food using locally sourced produce — North Devon meat and fish feature prominently — in a relaxed pub setting with a terrace that makes the most of the views. It is a genuinely good evening dining option for those staying in or around Westward Ho!, particularly in summer when the outdoor terrace catches the last of the day's light.

Bideford for More Choice

Bideford town, three miles north on the banks of the Torridge estuary, has a much wider range of restaurants, cafés and pubs than Westward Ho! itself — including independent restaurants, a good market area, and several riverside pubs that are excellent on summer evenings. If you are based at Westward Ho! for more than a day or two, Bideford is worth the short drive for dinner or a morning exploring the town.

Walks

Walks from Westward Ho!

Northam Burrows to Appledore

The finest walk immediately accessible from Westward Ho! beach runs northward across Northam Burrows to the historic maritime village of Appledore — a linear route of approximately four miles that follows the coast and estuary edge through one of the most atmospheric landscapes in North Devon. From the north end of the beach, the path crosses onto the Burrows and heads along the edge of the Torridge estuary, passing the golf course on the right and estuary mud and saltmarsh on the left. The birdwatching along this stretch is consistently good, with egret, redshank, oystercatcher and curlew regular on the estuary edge throughout the year.

Appledore itself is an exceptionally characterful North Devon village — a tight network of narrow streets running down to the waterfront, with colourful painted houses, a strong maritime tradition and an excellent pub or two. The village was historically one of the most important shipbuilding communities on the North Devon coast, and some of that industrial and seafaring heritage is still legible in the waterfront architecture. Appledore is well worth at least an hour's exploration before the return walk or a bus back to Westward Ho!.

The South West Coast Path

The South West Coast Path passes through Westward Ho! on its way along the North Devon coast. Heading south-west from the town, the coast path climbs onto the cliffs above Westward Ho! and continues toward Clovelly — one of the most dramatic sections of the entire South West Coast Path, with vertiginous cliff scenery, coastal woodland and views across the Bristol Channel to Wales on clear days. The first three miles from Westward Ho! to Abbotsham Cliffs are achievable as an out-and-back walk of moderate difficulty. Continuing further to Clovelly (about 10 miles one way) is one of the great half-day walks on the North Devon coast but requires either a car shuttle or a return by taxi.

Kipling Tors

Above and behind Westward Ho!, the area of elevated ground known as Kipling Tors offers a shorter but rewarding walk with exceptional views across Bideford Bay. The Tors take their name from Rudyard Kipling, who attended school at the United Services College in Westward Ho! in the 1880s (the school features in his autobiographical novel Stalky and Co.) and who explored this hilltop ground extensively as a boy. The views from the Tors on a clear day are outstanding — taking in the full length of Bideford Bay, Lundy Island, and on the best days the southern coast of Wales beyond. The walk from the town to the Tors and back is manageable in under two hours and suitable for older children.

Tides & Safety

Tides & Safety at Westward Ho!

The tidal range at Westward Ho! is substantial — as it is across all of the Bristol Channel and its approaches — and understanding the tide is important for planning your visit and staying safe on the beach.

• Low tide: The beach extends very wide, with a broad expanse of firm sand exposed. Excellent for walking, exploring and beach games. The pebble ridge is most visible and dramatic at low water. Rock pools can appear at the northern end where the beach meets harder substrate.
• Mid-tide (rising or falling): The sweet spot for surfing and bodyboarding, with clean wave formation on the rising push. Good for general swimming as the water deepens toward the beach access points.
• High tide: The beach narrows considerably and the pebble ridge becomes a more prominent feature. Swimming is at its deepest and most invigorating. In large swell conditions, high tide at Westward Ho! can produce significant wave action close to the beach — be aware of conditions before entering the water.

Rip Currents and Flat Beach Safety

The very flatness that makes Westward Ho! such a comfortable family beach also creates a specific hazard: because the beach shelves very gently, the tide goes out an exceptionally long way on spring low tides, and the rate at which it comes back in can catch visitors by surprise. Children playing on exposed sand at low tide should be supervised and the returning tide watched. The distance from the tide line to the high water mark can be several hundred metres, and the sea can close that distance faster than it appears from the beach.

When to Visit

Seasonal Guide to Westward Ho!

September is the best month to visit Westward Ho! for most visitors. The water retains the accumulated warmth of summer, often reaching 17–18°C, which is genuinely comfortable for swimming. The school-holiday crowds have dispersed and the beach recovers its spaciousness. Atlantic swells begin to build in earnest, improving surf quality significantly. And the light over Bideford Bay in the North Devon autumn — the sun lower in the sky, the greens of Northam Burrows intensifying, the occasional stormy shower rolling in from the Atlantic and clearing quickly — is one of the most beautiful things this coast produces.

Off-season visits between October and March offer a completely different experience. The beach is largely empty, the pebble ridge most dramatic in winter storm conditions, and Northam Burrows at its best for birdwatching as winter migrants arrive. The Pig on the Hill and the seafront cafés that remain open year-round provide warm shelter and good food after a bracing walk. A clear winter morning with the full length of the beach to yourself and Lundy Island sharp on the horizon is a genuinely memorable North Devon experience.

Nearby

Nearby Beaches & Attractions

• Instow (3 miles across the estuary): The small, sheltered beach at Instow sits on the opposite bank of the Taw-Torridge estuary — calm, south-facing and excellent for families and paddleboarders. A seasonal foot ferry has historically connected Instow and Appledore.
• Saunton Sands (12 miles north): Three miles of unbroken sand backed by the Braunton Burrows dunes — one of the finest beaches in England, consistently producing long, even waves suited to all surfing levels. The approach is via Braunton and the B3231.
• Croyde (14 miles north): North Devon's most celebrated surf beach — a compact, powerful beach break in a beautiful village setting. Outstanding for experienced surfers, particularly in autumn. Busy in summer but worth it.
• Bideford (3 miles): The historic market town of Bideford sits on the Torridge estuary and is one of the most characterful towns in North Devon — a long medieval bridge, a good pannier market, independent shops and riverside pubs make it worth half a day.
• Appledore (4 miles by coast path): A beautifully preserved maritime village at the confluence of the Taw and Torridge estuaries, with narrow painted streets, a working waterfront and a genuine sense of North Devon seafaring history.
• RHS Rosemoor (8 miles): The Royal Horticultural Society's South West garden at Great Torrington is one of the finest gardens in the region, at its best from late spring through autumn. An excellent option for a half-day combining with a beach morning.
• Lundy Island (boat from Bideford): The remote island sitting 12 miles out in the Bristol Channel is accessible by ferry from Bideford during the summer season — a full day out combining a dramatic boat crossing, cliff walking and exceptional wildlife including Atlantic puffins, seals and Soay sheep.