Devon's Most Dramatic Chalk Cliff Walk
Beer Head stands as the most westerly chalk headland in England — a towering white cliff face that marks the point where the chalk geology of southern England finally gives way to the older red sandstones of Devon. The headland rises to over 130 metres above the sea, and the vertical white cliffs are visible for miles along the coast, a striking contrast to the red and grey rock that dominates the rest of Devon's shoreline.
This circular walk from Beer village takes in the full drama of the headland and its surrounding landscape. You climb from the pretty fishing village to the open cliff top, follow the South West Coast Path east along the highest chalk cliffs in Devon, descend through the extraordinary Hooken Undercliff — a massive landslip that created a hidden wilderness of chalk pinnacles and dense vegetation — and arrive at Branscombe Mouth beach before returning to Beer through quiet farmland. The whole route sits within the Jurassic Coast UNESCO World Heritage Site, a coastline that exposes 185 million years of geological history.
🪨 The Chalk & the Jurassic Coast
Beer Head marks the western limit of England's chalk. East of here, the white cliffs continue intermittently through Dorset, Hampshire and Kent to the famous cliffs of Dover. West of Beer Head, the chalk disappears entirely and Devon's older Triassic red sandstone takes over. This geological boundary is one of the most visible in England and makes Beer Head a site of genuine scientific importance within the wider Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site.
The Route
🗺️ Beer Head Circular via Branscombe (4 miles · 2–2.5 hours)
From Beer village car park (EX12 3JB), walk down through the village to the seafront and turn left (east) along the coast path. The path climbs steeply out of Beer, gaining height quickly on a well-maintained track. As you rise above the village, the white chalk cliffs begin to reveal themselves and views open up westward along the coast toward Sidmouth and beyond. The climb is the steepest section of the entire walk — take your time and enjoy the expanding views behind you.
The cliff top east of Beer Head is broad and open, with the path following the edge of arable fields along the highest chalk cliffs in Devon. The views from here are exceptional: Lyme Bay stretches away east toward Dorset, Portland Bill is often visible on clear days, and the sheer white cliff face drops vertically below. Look for fulmars gliding along the cliff edges and listen for the clattering of jackdaws nesting in the chalk. The path reaches the Hooken Cliffs viewpoint, where you get your first dramatic view down into the Undercliff.
The coast path drops steeply into the Hooken Undercliff — a vast area of collapsed chalk created by a massive landslip in 1790. The descent is on a narrow, sometimes muddy path through dense vegetation, passing towering chalk pinnacles left standing when the cliff behind them collapsed. This is the most atmospheric section of the walk: the pinnacles rise above the tree canopy, the light filters through the leaves, and the whole place feels like a hidden, forgotten landscape. The path can be slippery after rain — good footwear is essential.
The path emerges from the Undercliff onto the shingle beach at Branscombe Mouth — a wild, fossil-rich stretch of coast managed by the National Trust. There is a NT car park, toilets, and the popular Sea Shanty cafe and shop here. The beach is an excellent place for fossil hunting along the base of the cliffs, particularly after winter storms have exposed fresh material. This is a natural rest point before the return leg.
From Branscombe Mouth, turn inland and follow the signed footpath northwest through fields and quiet lanes back to Beer. This return leg is gentler than the outward coastal route, passing through rolling East Devon farmland with views over the patchwork of fields and hedgerows. The path eventually descends back into Beer village from the top of the hill, completing the circuit. Follow signs for Beer rather than continuing inland to Branscombe village.
🧊 Fossil Hunting at Branscombe
The beaches along this stretch of the Jurassic Coast are rich in fossils, particularly ammonites, belemnites and bivalves. Branscombe Mouth is one of the best accessible spots for casual fossil hunting in East Devon — look among the loose shingle and at the base of the cliffs rather than hammering at the rock face. The best time to search is after winter storms, which expose fresh material from the cliff. Always check tide times before exploring the beach at the foot of the cliffs, and never climb on unstable cliff faces.
Walk Highlights
White Chalk Cliffs
Beer Head's dramatic white cliffs are the most westerly chalk in England. The vertical face drops over 130 metres to the sea, creating a stark contrast with Devon's red sandstone coast — visible for miles along Lyme Bay.
Hooken Undercliff
A massive landslip from 1790 created this hidden wilderness of chalk pinnacles, dense scrub and a unique sheltered microclimate. Rare plants, butterflies and nesting birds thrive in this undisturbed landscape between the cliffs.
Beer Quarry Caves
Just outside the village, underground quarries have been worked since Roman times for fine-grained Beer stone. The caves are open for guided tours — a fascinating separate visit that pairs well with the walk.
Beer
One of Devon's prettiest fishing villages, set in a sheltered cove with a shingle beach, working mackerel boats hauled up on the shore, excellent pubs and a timeless atmosphere that has barely changed in decades.
The Hooken Undercliff
The Hooken Undercliff is the centrepiece of this walk and one of the most unusual landscapes on the Devon coast. On the night of March 26, 1790, a vast section of the chalk cliff collapsed, sending an estimated ten acres of land sliding toward the sea. The landslip left behind a chaotic terrain of fallen blocks, standing chalk pinnacles and deep fissures, which over the following two centuries has been colonised by dense vegetation to create a hidden, sheltered wilderness.
Walking through the Undercliff today feels entirely different from the open cliff top above. The chalk pinnacles — some standing 20 metres high — rise above a dense canopy of ash, sycamore and ivy. The sheltered aspect creates a warm microclimate that supports species rarely found elsewhere on the Devon coast, including several uncommon butterfly species and a rich ground flora. The path through the Undercliff is narrow and can be muddy, but the atmosphere is extraordinary — part ancient woodland, part geological ruin.
The Hooken Undercliff is managed as a nature reserve and is an important geological teaching site within the Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site. Ongoing erosion means the landscape continues to change — minor rockfalls are common, and the coast path is occasionally rerouted when sections become unstable.
Beer Village
Beer is one of East Devon's most characterful villages — a small, steep-sided cove where a stream runs down through the main street to a shingle beach lined with traditional fishing boats. The village has been a working fishing settlement for centuries, and mackerel boats are still hauled up on the beach and launched through the surf in the traditional manner. The catch is sold fresh from the beach in summer.
The village itself is compact and easy to explore on foot. Fore Street drops steeply to the seafront, lined with independent shops, galleries and a handful of good pubs and cafes. The Anchor Inn and the Dolphin Hotel both serve decent food and are popular with walkers. Beer also has an independent brewery, and the annual Beer Regatta in August is one of the liveliest events on the East Devon coast.
For families, Beer Quarry Caves offer a separate underground adventure — guided tours take you through vast cathedral-like chambers cut from the chalk over nearly 2,000 years. The stone quarried here was used in Exeter Cathedral, the Tower of London and many other historic buildings. The caves are open from spring through autumn and are a worthwhile addition to a day based around the Beer Head walk.
Dogs on the Beer Head Walk
Dogs are welcome on the Beer Head walk and on the coast path throughout this section of the Jurassic Coast. Keep dogs on leads along the cliff-top sections, where the drops are severe and the path runs close to the edge. Through the Hooken Undercliff, the path is narrow and dogs should remain on a short lead to protect ground-nesting birds and the sensitive vegetation. On Branscombe Mouth beach there are no seasonal dog restrictions — dogs are welcome year-round. On Beer beach itself, seasonal restrictions apply in the central area between May and September.
Getting There
Beer is on the East Devon coast between Seaton and Sidmouth, about 2 miles off the A3052. The village is well-signed from the main road. The main car park is on Common Lane (postcode EX12 3JB), a short walk from the village centre and the start of the coast path. The car park is pay-and-display and fills quickly in summer — arrive before 10am in peak season or use the overflow parking above the village.
By public transport, the Jurassic Coaster (bus 9A) runs along the coast between Exeter and Lyme Regis, stopping in Beer. This is a scenic route in its own right and makes a car-free day trip from Exeter entirely feasible. Axminster (5 miles north) is the nearest mainline railway station, with connections from London Waterloo and Exeter.
🌊 Combining with Branscombe
Branscombe is one of the longest villages in Devon, stretching along a narrow valley inland from the beach. If you have time after the walk, the National Trust-owned Old Bakery, Manor Mill and Forge at Branscombe are worth a visit — a collection of traditional village buildings preserved by the NT. Branscombe Mouth itself is a fine beach for an afternoon — quieter than Beer, shingle underfoot, and with the Sea Shanty for refreshments. You can extend the walk by continuing the coast path east from Branscombe toward Weston Mouth for an even more remote stretch of undercliff.
💡 Practical Tips
- Footwear: Walking boots recommended. The Undercliff descent is steep and can be slippery after rain.
- Season: Walkable year-round. Spring and early summer are best for wildflowers and butterflies in the Undercliff. Autumn gives the clearest long-distance views across Lyme Bay.
- Refreshments: Pubs and cafes in Beer at the start. Sea Shanty cafe at Branscombe Mouth midway. No facilities through the Undercliff section.
- Tides: The main route is not tide-dependent, but if you plan to explore the beach at the foot of the chalk cliffs, check tide times before setting out.