Walking Exmoor from Devon
Exmoor National Park is the northernmost of Devon's two national parks, straddling the county boundary with Somerset along its northern edge. The Devon portion of the park is centred on the spectacular coast and inland combes around Lynton and Lynmouth — the twin cliff-top and harbour villages connected by a famous Victorian water-powered cliff railway. From Lynmouth the East and West Lyn rivers cut deep, wooded gorges through the moor before meeting at Watersmeet, one of the most beautiful woodland walks in south-west England.
The Exmoor coast is extraordinary: the cliffs between Combe Martin and Minehead are among the highest sea cliffs in England, and Great Hangman, near Combe Martin, is the highest point on the entire South West Coast Path at 318 metres above sea level. The moorland plateau above stretches south into gentle, rolling heather-covered hills where red deer — the largest wild land animal in Britain — graze freely, and Exmoor ponies roam the open moorland.
⚠️ Exmoor Walking Essentials
- OS Map: Explorer OL9 covers all the Devon-side Exmoor walks — carry a paper copy as mobile signal is poor in combes and on open moorland
- Weather: Exmoor plateau weather can change fast — mist, rain and strong winds arrive with little warning even in summer. Always carry waterproofs
- Ticks: Exmoor has a high tick population — check yourself and dogs after any walk in long grass or heather, and use tick repellent
- Exmoor ponies: These semi-wild ponies are part of the national park's character — enjoy them from a distance; do not feed them
- Red deer rutting: October-November is the deer rut — stags can be unpredictable; keep your distance and keep dogs on leads near deer
The Best Exmoor Walks from Devon
01
Watersmeet & Lynmouth Gorge
Exmoor · Lynmouth · Devon's most beautiful woodland gorge walk
The walk from Lynmouth up the East Lyn gorge to Watersmeet is one of the finest short walks in Devon — a narrow, tree-canopied path following the river as it tumbles over boulders through a deep, hanging oak woodland. The gorge is dramatic in all seasons: in winter the river runs full and the woodland is open; in spring the banks are carpeted with wood anemone and wild garlic; in summer the dappled light through ancient sessile oaks is extraordinary. Watersmeet itself — where the East Lyn meets Hoar Oak Water — is marked by a Victorian fishing lodge that now serves as a National Trust tearoom, perfectly positioned in the V of the confluence.
The return route climbs steeply out of the gorge to Countisbury before descending back into Lynmouth — involving around 200 metres of ascent, but nothing technically difficult. The total walk takes around 90 minutes at a comfortable pace. Dogs must be on leads along the riverbank sections.
Full Watersmeet walk guide →02
Valley of Rocks, Lynton
Exmoor · Lynton · Feral goats, rock towers and coastal drama
The Valley of Rocks is unlike anything else in Devon — a dry valley running parallel to the coast whose floor is strewn with massive frost-shattered rock formations, each with its own dramatic name: Rugged Jack, the Devil's Cheesewring, Castle Rock. Wild Cheviot goats have colonised the rocks since the 18th century, scrambling casually over the boulders and posing for photographs with complete indifference. The circular walk from Lynton passes through the Valley of Rocks and then climbs onto the South West Coast Path, which runs above 250-metre cliffs with the sea visible far below. The combination of geological spectacle, wild animals, coastal drama and the Victorian Gothic atmosphere of Lynton make this one of the most memorable walks in north Devon.
The descent into Lynmouth offers the option of returning to Lynton by the famous Victorian water-powered cliff railway — a 270-metre funicular that has been running since 1890, using the weight of water to power the carriages. Well worth experiencing, especially with children.
Full Valley of Rocks walk guide →03
Dunkery Beacon
Exmoor · Exmoor Plateau · Summit of the national park
At 519 metres, Dunkery Beacon is the highest point in Exmoor National Park and the highest point in Devon (just). The circular walk from Dunkery Gate car park — just inside the Somerset boundary but easily reached from the Devon side of the park — follows good paths across open heather moorland to the summit cairn, where on a clear day the views extend across the Bristol Channel to Wales, south to Dartmoor, and west along the Exmoor coastal cliffs. The heather moorland around Dunkery is some of the finest in England — glowing purple-pink in August and September — and red deer are frequently visible from the path, especially early morning and evening.
The descent from the beacon can be varied to take in Horner Wood — an ancient oak woodland in the valley below, which in spring is carpeted with bluebells and ringing with birdsong. The combination of open moorland summit and ancient woodland valley makes Dunkery Beacon a walk of genuine contrasts.
04
County Gate to Foreland Point
Exmoor Coast · SWCP · The highest sea cliffs on the SW peninsula
The section of South West Coast Path between County Gate and Foreland Point runs above some of the most imposing sea cliffs in England — the moorland edge dropping hundreds of metres directly to the Bristol Channel below. County Gate sits on the Devon-Somerset boundary, and the walk westward towards Foreland Point passes above Countisbury — where the hillside is so steep that the church sits perched on an almost vertiginous ledge — before reaching the lighthouse at Foreland Point, the most northerly point on the Exmoor coast. The views across the Bristol Channel to the Welsh coast on clear days are extraordinary.
The path is exposed to the prevailing south-west winds and should be avoided in strong winds or poor visibility. On a clear, calm day it is one of the finest coastal walks in Devon. Arrange a taxi from Lynmouth for the return leg.
05
Horner Wood
Exmoor · Horner Valley · Ancient oak woodland & red deer
Horner Wood is one of the finest ancient oak woodlands in Britain — a National Nature Reserve where veteran sessile oaks draped in lichens and ferns line the banks of Horner Water. In spring the woodland floor is bright with bluebells and wood sorrel; in summer the canopy closes overhead to create a green cathedral effect; in autumn the oak leaves turn every shade of copper and gold; in winter the structure of the ancient trees is fully revealed. Red deer are regularly seen in the woodland glades, especially at dawn and dusk, and the stream holds dippers and grey wagtails year-round.
The circular walk from Horner village follows the stream into the woodland heart before climbing onto the moorland edge at Ley Hill, with views across the Bristol Channel, then descending back through the trees. A gentle route with no serious challenges, ideal for families or a peaceful afternoon walk.
06
Brendon Common & the Doone Valley
Exmoor · Brendon · Lorna Doone country on wild moorland
Brendon Common is R.D. Blackmore's Doone Valley — the wild Exmoor moorland that formed the backdrop to his 1869 novel Lorna Doone, one of the most enduringly popular West Country novels. The walk from Malmsmead climbs across Badgworthy Water via a series of stepping stones and follows the path up through the valley that Blackmore described as the Doone stronghold. The moorland above Brendon Common is dramatic in all seasons but particularly in autumn, when the heather has faded to rust and the valley mists rise from the river below. It is remote walking — good OS map navigation skills required, and mobile signal is essentially non-existent throughout.
07
Malmsmead to Oare
Exmoor · Brendon Valley · Gentle Doone Valley walk with ford crossings
A gentler introduction to the Doone Valley than the Brendon Common route — the easy circular walk from Malmsmead to Oare follows the wooded lower section of Badgworthy Water and returns via quiet lanes. The highlight is Oare Church — a tiny medieval church where the wedding scene in Lorna Doone takes place. Lorna is shot at the altar by Carver Doone in one of Victorian literature's most dramatic moments. The ford crossing at Malmsmead is both practical and atmospheric — wellies or quick-dry trainers recommended for the crossing in normal river levels. A lovely short family walk with literary associations.
08
Watersmeet to Lynmouth via the Coastal Path
Exmoor · Gorge & Coast · The best of Exmoor in one circular walk
The best circular walk in the Lynton and Lynmouth area — a six-mile loop that combines the gorge walk up to Watersmeet with a return via the clifftop South West Coast Path. The outward route follows the East Lyn river through the ancient oak gorge to Watersmeet (coffee stop at the NT tearoom), then climbs out of the valley via a steep path to Countisbury. The return leg follows the SWCP westward along the clifftops — with extraordinary views of the sea and the cliffs ahead — before descending steeply back into Lynmouth via Countisbury Hill road or the cliff path. The contrast between the enclosed, intimate woodland gorge and the open, dramatic clifftop is remarkable.
Watersmeet walk guide →Exmoor Wildlife — What to Look For
🦌 Wildlife to Spot on Exmoor
- Red deer: England's largest wild land mammal — Exmoor has around 3,000. Best seen at dawn/dusk on open moorland. October rut is spectacular (but keep your distance from stags)
- Exmoor ponies: One of Britain's oldest native breeds — small, sturdy and incredibly hardy. Seen on open moorland, especially around Dunkery and Withypool Common
- Dipper: The classic Exmoor river bird — found on all the main streams, bobbing on midstream boulders. Watersmeet is one of the most reliable sites in Devon
- Peregrine falcon: Nests on coastal cliffs; regularly seen hunting along the coast between Combe Martin and Minehead
- Merlin: Britain's smallest falcon hunts low over the heather on Dunkery and Brendon Common, especially in summer
- Kingfisher: Occasional on the East Lyn river below Watersmeet — flash of iridescent blue on the water
The Exmoor Coastal Path — Devon's Most Dramatic Scenery
The stretch of South West Coast Path along the Exmoor coast — roughly from Combe Martin east to Minehead — contains some of the most dramatic coastal scenery in England. Great Hangman, just east of Combe Martin, rises to 318 metres directly from the sea, making it the highest point on the entire SWCP. Little Hangman immediately to its west is nearly as impressive. The cliffs between Heddon's Mouth and Lynmouth drop almost vertically to the sea with no beach at all — among the most austere coastal scenery on the peninsula. Foreland Point lighthouse, at the far eastern end of Devon's Exmoor coast, marks the most northerly point in the county and a significant navigational waypoint on the Bristol Channel.
For the best overview of the entire Exmoor coastal section, see our South West Coast Path Devon guide and North Devon walks page.
Getting to Exmoor from Devon
Lynton and Lynmouth are around 1 hour from Barnstaple (via the A39), 1.5 hours from Exeter, and 2.5 hours from Plymouth. There is no railway station — the nearest is Barnstaple. The X2 bus from Barnstaple serves Lynton and Lynmouth via Blackmoor Gate year-round, with seasonal services from Minehead. Lynton car parks fill quickly in summer — arrive before 9am or use the Lynbridge car park (a short walk from the town). For the Doone Valley and Brendon, a car is essentially essential as public transport does not serve these remote combes.